the state

– of local beginnings. by vastate
Wednesday, 17 June 2009, 20:05
Filed under: - of restaurant review, -of eats, -of green, -of harrisonburg, -of jhumphrey, -of localism

so, we were just thinking.  (we do this sometimes.)

in the june/july 2009 edition of flavor magazine, there is a column by joel salatin called “transient chefs”.


in it, he writes,

The time that a chef’s move benefited me the most was when Lisa Joy and Doug Porter closed 23 Beverly in Staunton and she became the head chef at Joshua Wilton House in Harrisonburg.  She introduced our pastured meats and poultry there, and it has been our flagship restuarant for nearly two decades.

in the past couple of years, there has been much hype about the writings of local food guru michael pollan.  in his oh so popular, and oh so excellent book, omnivore’s delimna, he devotes whole chapters to who?  joel salatin.  he uses salatin as a case study to highlight local (vs. organic) food trials and successes.  this example is ultimately a huge part of his thesis.


so.  like i said.  we were thinking.

does this mean that the current national obession with local food can be partly traced back to harrisonburg? back to us?

to the joshua wilton house.


to t&e meats (which, according to salatin, now stands for “true and essential”).


to our cows.  and pigs.  and chickens.


there are other establishments with a 20 year history of local food dedication.  sure.  check out alice water’s chez panisse in berkely.

but, do we often think of our very own in the same holy local food light?

maybe we should.


4 Comments so far
Leave a comment

Good thoughts, Jill. Go Harrisonburg!

We went to Chez Panisse once when we lived in Berkeley. But we left 3-year-old Johan with a babysitter. He wasn’t as appreciative of local food back then!

Comment by Boss

Here’s a link to the article:

Comment by Josh

flights and bites at JWH,
tues-thurs 5-6:30
$29 for 3 appetizer’s paired w/ half glasses of wine…..

Comment by seth

NICE! thanks, seth…

Comment by vastate

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